5 flagship collections for SS23

5 flagship collections for SS23

5 flagship collections for SS23

Copenhagen Fashion Week was back in full swing for Spring/Summer 2023, after several phygital editions, with programming focused on the best of the Nordics with an enduring mindset, established names, such as Ganni and Henrik Vibskov, with emerging talents including Jade Cropper, (Di)vision and The Garment.

For SS23, the Scandinavian fashion capital presented a 36-brand program on the five-day showcase championing womenswear brands such as Holzweiler and Gestuz, as well as a “strong focus” on menswear with Soulland , Martin Asbjørn and Wood Wood.

This season also included a new emerging designer program ‘CPHFW NewTalent’ supporting A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and PLN, as well as a partnership with Ukrainian Fashion Week including sustainable clothing TG Botanical and London/Reykjavík-based design studio Ranra was named winner of the fourth Zalando Sustainability Award impressing the judges with her colorful and fashionable parade.

Copenhagen Fashion Week has also confirmed that it will go fur-free, banning fur from all its participating brands and runways, as part of the event’s ongoing drive for sustainability.

The best SS23 collections from Copenhagen Fashion Week

Picture: Holzweiler SS23

Holzweiler “On the move”

Norwegian brand Holzweiler kicked off Copenhagen Fashion Week by announcing that venture capital firm Sequoia Capital China had obtained a majority stake to help accelerate its global ambitions. This will include expanding its bricks and mortar business with its first London flagship set to open in spring 2023. This flagship will likely launch with this SS23 ‘In Motion’ collection, which featured a light and airy feel with nomadic and utilitarian vibrations. in an elemental color palette inspired by the natural world.

Picture: Holzweiler

For women, there were dresses made from recycled parachutes that innovatively formed from the puffy folds of a used canopy, donated by Norwegian sports specialist Skyvoss, which were tied to the body with a macrame corset . While other looks had raw exposed seams in a nod to the suspension lines of parachutes, and some dresses were made in a ladder-like knit tied with knots. Other key styles included quilted vests with protective padding, cargo pants with multiple spliced ​​pockets around the thigh, and gauzy briefs layered over floaty chiffon pants.

Picture: Holzweiler

For men, pilot jackets were crafted in shiny vegan leather, alongside high-end wardrobe staples like waistcoats, crisp trench coats and long shorts, while flared suits and bowling shirts offered a young silhouette.

Image: Ganni by Simon Birk

Ganni ‘Joyride’

Scandi’s best-known brand, Ganni, closed Copenhagen Fashion Week with a colorful 90s-themed outdoor show that was a love letter to the city with models on BMX bikes wearing bright colors and dopamine flakes. The daily commute, whether to work or to a date, was the creative starting point for Ganni’s SS23 collection, which translated into bodycon dresses, ultra-cropped jackets, long Western-inspired prairie skirts, shrunken peasant blouses and a neon pink power jumpsuit.

Image: Ganni by Simon Birk

“This collection is really about that feeling. We called it Joyride because it’s about Copenhagen being where our heart is,” Ganni creative director Ditte Reffstrup explained in the show notes. “There’s a feeling of being in the city in the summer that I can’t quite explain, the energy is pulsing, it really sets the pace. It made us think of the rhythm of our hearts and the beat you see on a hospital monitor. This line is so beautiful – it’s life. We’ve used this lifeline as a symbol throughout the collection, wavy lines on the collars and hems inspired by a heartbeat.

The SS23 collection also featured several collaborations, including denim with Levi’s in natural dyes and upcycled pieces with Barbour, with Ganni breathing new life into Barbour Re-Loved jackets. The first Re-Loved collection will go on sale in October. Ganni also unveiled its third collaboration with Icelandic heritage brand 66°North featuring neoshell pants, a gilet, a bucket hat and two jackets made exclusively from unused rolls of fabric, including recycled materials like nylon and polyester. recycled.

Image: Ganni by Simon Birk

Reffstrup added, “I’m a collaboration junkie. I love it when chemistry works and ideas flow. As an industry, we need to start cooperating more if we want to make fashion more responsible. No brand, no matter how hard, can do it alone, we have to work together. »

This season, Ganni also added that 97% of its ready-to-wear pieces are made from responsible styles, which means that at least 50% of the composition is certified organic, low impact or recycled.

Image: Opera Sport

OperaSport

Up-and-coming Copenhagen/Paris-based brand OpéraSport presented their first-ever show during Copenhagen Fashion Week with an SS23 collection inspired by the sculptures that adorn both cities while paying homage to their current place in their lives as mothers.

The result was a strong and sexy collection in a soft color palette of sunset pink and purple hues featuring knit cutout tie front dresses, sheer puff sleeve blouses, ruched crop tops, long trench coats in leather and a metallic gray quilted suit.

Image: Opera Sport

OpéraSport also presented a collaborative project with British model Alva Claire, a size-inclusive capsule collection inspired by her favorite vintage pieces combined with the brand’s DNA of essential shapes and recycled materials. The 12-piece capsule, which ranges in sizes XS to 2XL, fuses classic, sporty and wearable styles with sexy contrast cuts, including a unisex sweatshirt and quilted bag.

Image: Opera Sport

“We approached this project very humbly, as this is our first show, so careful attention has been paid to every detail, so that everything comes together in a higher unity,” said OperaSport founders Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach in the show. Remarks.

Image: Jade Cropper SS23

Jade ‘Future Vintage’ Cropper

Talented Swedish Jade Cropper is an emerging designer leading the new Scandi style with her iconic deconstructed designs and unabashedly assertive style that appeals to a younger audience. “Future Vintage” marks Cropper’s second collection and is inspired by his mother’s photographic studies of decaying leaves and flowers and the beauty of the imperfect.

Image: Jade Cropper SS23

In the show’s notes, Cropper said, “As a person, I’m quite introverted and fashion has become my way of expressing myself. Using visual references from my mother’s photographs, I designed this collection in the making, driven by curiosity and exploration of material manipulations.

“More than ever, I embraced and welcomed the natural messiness of my creative process and the visual outcome displays those imperfections and imbalances resulting in something abrasive.”

Image: Jade Cropper SS23

The result was a confident SS23 collection filled with form-fitting, form-fitting dresses inspired by the current Y2K trend with intricate cutout details, as well as bleached and hand-dyed denim pieces, monogrammed fine knits and gradients, as well as distressed knits and leather. and designs with wide hemlines and unconventional closures.

Each of the pieces shown have been handcrafted by Cropper in their Stockholm workshop, with distressed denim, knits and printed jacquard crafted using Circulose, a fiber made from 100% recycled textile waste. scum. Other durable items included deadstock leather and printed Tencel fabrics.

Image: (Di)vision SS23

(Division

Recycled streetwear brand (Di)vision staged a co-ed show in a forest lit by mushroom-shaped lamps that took Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 film “Apocalypse Now” as its starting point. The SS23 collection elaborates on the film’s difficult themes, from war to its psychological impact on people, which design duo Simon and Nanna Wick said in the show’s notes, “feels very relevant in the world of conflict of ‘today”.

The ‘make love, not war’ sentiment translated into the free spirit of the collection. They reworked the military aesthetic, turning surplus military gear into lace-up mini dresses, oversized jackets, pants and tote bags, alongside feminine paisley patchwork and bell-sleeved dresses, and patched denim pieces in the form of skirts, dresses and jackets.

Image: (Di)vision SS23

(Di)vision says using surplus military gear is in line with the brand’s commitment to working with unused fabrics and recycling as much as possible, however, he admitted the challenge of producing on a larger scale with less impact also meant that he was constantly looking for new sources of materials. This resulted in the development of pieces from interior fabrics in collaboration with the design house Gubi.

Copenhagen Fashion Week returns from January 31 to February 2, 2023.

Image: (Di)vision SS23

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